Vintage tube guitar amps sell for roughly $600-8,000 as of November 2026, depending on the era and how original they are. On Reverb, a 1970s silverface Fender Deluxe Reverb sells for about $1,100-2,100, a 1963-67 blackface Deluxe Reverb for about $3,100-5,000, a late-1950s tweed Bassman or Deluxe for about $3,500-7,900, and a 1960s Vox AC30 for about $3,750-6,550.
Where a given amp lands is easy to check with the back panel off: the date codes on the tube chart, transformers, pots and speakers tell you when it was made, and whether they match tells you how original it is. And before anything else: do not plug in an old tube amp that has sat for years until a technician has checked it.
Quick answer
- Silverface Fender (1967 to 1980): drip edge Champ about $600-1,000, Deluxe Reverb about $1,100-2,100 (drip edge 1968-69 about $1,800-3,000), 135-watt Twin Reverb about $600-1,200.
- Blackface Fender (1963 to 1967): Deluxe Reverb about $3,100-5,000. Tweed (1950s): Champ 5F1 about $1,800-4,300, Deluxe 5E3 and Bassman 5F6-A about $3,500-7,900.
- Marshall JMP 1959 Super Lead 100-watt (1967 to 1975): about $2,900-4,950, with one Excellent example at $16,850. JMP 2203 (1975 to 1981): about $1,950-2,700.
- Vox AC30 Top Boost, 1960s JMI: about $3,750-6,550. Ampeg B-15N Portaflex: about $1,600-4,500.
- Replaced transformers or speakers can take 20-40 percent off. A dead amp sells as a project at well under half.
How do I identify and date a vintage amp?
Find the brand and model on the front or control panel, decide the era by the look, then confirm the year with the date codes inside. Unplug it first and leave the chassis alone; the codes on the cabinet, speaker and tube chart can be read without touching the electronics.
- Read the panel. Fender names the model on the control panel (Champ, Princeton, Deluxe, Bassman, Twin, Super). Marshall puts the model number on the back panel and the JMP or JCM logo on the front. Vox names the AC30 on the back; Ampeg's B-15 is the flip-top "Portaflex" bass amp.
- Decide the Fender era by looks. Tweed cloth covering: 1948 to 1960. Brown or blonde Tolex: about 1960 to 1963. Black Tolex with a black control panel: "blackface", 1963 to 1967. Black Tolex with a brushed aluminum panel: "silverface", about 1967 to 1980. Silverface amps from 1968 and 1969 with a thin aluminum trim around the grille are called "drip edge" and are the most wanted silverface years.
- Find the tube chart. Fender glued a paper chart showing the tube layout inside the cabinet. Up to the end of the blackface era, around 1967, it carries a two-letter ink stamp: the first letter is the year (A is 1951, B 1952 and so on to Q for 1967) and the second is the month (A is January to L for December). OB is February 1965.
- Read the transformer codes. Most post-tweed Fenders used Schumacher transformers stamped with a code like 606-645. The last three digits are the date: the first is the last digit of the year, the last two the week, so 645 is the 45th week of a year ending in 6. Blackface amps are usually the 1960s, silverface the 1970s.
- Read the speaker and pot codes. Speakers and potentiometers carry an EIA source-date code: a manufacturer number, then the year and week. Jensen is 220, CTS is 137, Oxford is 465, Utah 328, Centralab 134 and Stackpole 304. The year is one or two digits and the week runs 01 to 52. A Jensen speaker stamped 220438 was made in the 38th week of 1964.
- Check that the dates agree. Tube chart, transformers, speakers and pots should fall within a few months of each other, and a little before the tube chart date. A 1979 speaker in a 1965 amp is a replacement.
- Look at the back and the cord. Marshall amps from 1969 carry a serial number with a year letter, and a Marshall dating chart decodes it. Two-prong power cords and a "ground switch" on old Fenders are original, but a tech will usually replace them with a grounded three-prong cord for safety, which buyers accept.
What are vintage amps worth?
These are Reverb sold prices, read from each model's transaction history in November 2026, with Reverb's own estimate. Most sales are 2026; they cover amps listed in Good to Mint condition, and non-working amps sell below them. Most models show only a handful of sales a year. The 135-watt Twin Reverb is the one row we could check against auction results: three late-1970s Twins sold for about $640-880 with buyer's premium at Gardiner Houlgate's June and September 2026 guitar auctions in Britain, sold without any promise that they worked, which fits the lower half of the Reverb range. For the other models we found fewer than three comparable auction results, so treat each range as a guide rather than a quote.
| Amp | Years | Recent Reverb sales | Reverb estimate |
|---|---|---|---|
| Fender Champ 5F1, tweed | 1958 to 1964 | $1,800-2,800, one mint at $4,300 | $1,694-3,377 |
| Fender Deluxe 5E3, tweed | 1955 to 1960 | $3,500-7,900 | $3,687-7,941 |
| Fender Bassman 5F6-A, tweed 4x10 | 1958 to 1960 | $3,950-7,500 | $2,965-6,480 |
| Fender Deluxe Reverb, blackface | 1963 to 1967 | $3,100-5,000 | $2,890-5,225 |
| Fender Champ, drip edge silverface | 1968 to 1969 | $600-1,000 | $609-1,053 |
| Fender Deluxe Reverb, drip edge | 1968 to 1969 | $1,800-3,000 | $1,679-3,292 |
| Fender Deluxe Reverb, silverface | 1970 to 1977 | $1,100-2,100 | $1,366-2,226 |
| Fender Twin Reverb, 135-watt silverface | 1977 to 1981 | $600-1,200 | $642-1,293 |
| Marshall JMP 1959 Super Lead 100-watt head | 1967 to 1975 | $2,900-4,950; one at $16,850 | $2,816-4,821 |
| Marshall JMP 2203 Master Model 100-watt head | 1975 to 1981 | $1,950-2,700 | $1,900-3,074 |
| Vox AC30/6 Top Boost, JMI | 1961 to 1968 | $3,750-6,550 (2024 to 2026; only three sales in 2026, $4,500-6,550) | $2,825-6,077 |
| Ampeg B-15N Portaflex | 1960 to 1962 | $1,620-4,500 | $1,822-4,160 |
| Ampeg B-15N Portaflex | 1968 to 1980 | $1,640-3,500 | $1,479-2,901 |
Two patterns stand out. Small amps hold their value: a tweed Champ is a 5-watt practice amp that sells for two to three times a 135-watt late-1970s Twin, because recording players want small vintage amps and the big late silverface amps are heavy and plentiful. And within a model, the earlier version carries the premium. Reverb's 1967 to 1975 Marshall page mixes the plexiglass-panel heads made up to 1969 with the later metal-panel ones, which is the likely reason one Excellent example sold for $16,850 while the other five sold for $2,900-4,950. Check the panel: clear plexiglass with gold backing is the early one.
Tweed, blackface or silverface: which Fender do I have?
| Era | Years | How to tell | Typical value |
|---|---|---|---|
| Tweed | 1948 to 1960 | Varnished tan cloth covering; TV-front (1948 to 1953), wide-panel (1953 to 1955) and narrow-panel (1955 to 1960) cabinets; circuit codes like 5F1 inside | About $1,800-7,900 for common models |
| Brown and blonde | About 1960 to 1963 | Brown or cream Tolex, brown or cream control panel | Varies widely by model; price from the exact model's sales |
| Blackface | 1963 to 1967 | Black Tolex, black control panel with white lettering | About $3,100-5,000 for a Deluxe Reverb |
| Drip edge silverface | 1968 to 1969 | Silver panel, thin aluminum trim around the grille cloth | Deluxe Reverb about $1,800-3,000 |
| Silverface | About 1967 to 1980 | Silver panel, blue lettering, no trim | About $600-2,100 by model |
Originality: transformers, speakers and caps
Buyers pay for original "iron" first. The output and power transformers are the hardest parts to replace convincingly, and an amp with a replaced output transformer usually sells for about 20-40 percent less. Original speakers come next: a 1960s Fender with its Jensen or Oxford speakers, or a Vox AC30 with its Celestion blue alnico speakers, sells for more than one with modern replacements. Keep a blown original speaker; buyers want it in the cabinet.
The exception is the capacitors. Electrolytic caps dry out, and replacing them is routine on any amp over 40 years old. A neat "cap job" does not hurt the value; scorched boards, messy solder and circuit modifications do. Ask the tech to bag the original parts.
| Change | Effect on value |
|---|---|
| Original transformers, speakers, cabinet and covering | Full price for the model and year |
| Filter caps replaced, three-prong cord fitted | Little or no effect; buyers expect it |
| Replaced speaker, original kept with the amp | Small deduction |
| Replaced speaker, original gone | About 10-25 percent off |
| Replaced output or power transformer | About 20-40 percent off |
| Recovered cabinet or new grille cloth | 15-30 percent off; more on tweed |
| Circuit modified (extra gain, master volume) | 20-40 percent off unless reversed |
| Not working, untested | Project price, often under half |
Is it safe to plug in an old amp?
No, not until someone has checked it. Old tube amps run on several hundred volts, and the electrolytic capacitors that filter that voltage dry out after decades. A tired filter cap can fail, short and take a transformer with it, and an old two-prong cord with a "death cap" ground switch can put voltage on the chassis and the strings. Tube amps also store a dangerous charge in their capacitors after they are unplugged.
So: do not open the chassis yourself, do not plug it in "just to see", and take it to an amp technician who will bring it up slowly on a variac or a light-bulb limiter, check the caps and tubes and fit a grounded cord. A bench check costs much less than a burned output transformer, and an amp that comes back with a short receipt sells for more. If you do not want to spend anything, list it as untested and do not power it.
A worked example
Say you find a black Fender combo with a silver control panel reading "Deluxe Reverb", a thin aluminum trim around the grille, and a two-prong cord.
The silver panel makes it silverface, and the trim around the grille makes it a drip edge, 1968 or 1969. Without opening the chassis, you look in the back: the tube chart has no two-letter stamp (normal for these years), the transformer reads 606-8xx, and the speaker frame shows a code starting 220 8. That is a 1968 transformer and a 1968 Jensen, consistent with each other. Reverb's sales of drip edge Deluxe Reverbs ran from $1,800 to $2,999 between August 2025 and October 2026, against $1,100-2,100 for the later 1970s silverface version. If the amp has its original speaker and transformers and works after a tech's check, about $1,800-3,000 is a realistic sale; untested, expect roughly $1,000-1,500.
How to sell a vintage guitar amp
An amp is always its own listing; the question is where. A silverface Fender, a 135-watt Twin Reverb or a reissue sells on Reverb, where the fee is about 5 percent plus payment processing, or locally to spare the freight on a heavy combo. A music store or vintage dealer will offer about 50-70 percent of the Reverb price. A tweed amp, an all-original blackface, a plexi-panel Marshall from before 1970, a JMI-era Vox or an amp with a documented history with a known player belongs with a vintage guitar dealer or an auction house with a musical instrument department, where the buyers for a $16,850 Super Lead are.
Get a technician's bench check first and put the receipt in the listing; an amp with a cap job and a grounded cord sells for more than one marked untested. Then show:
- The control panel and the back with the panel off, tube chart stamp readable.
- The transformer, speaker and pot codes, with the years they decode to.
- Which parts are original and which are replaced, with the originals bagged and included.
- Any circuit modification, recovering or new grille cloth.
If you ship, pull the tubes and pack them separately.
Do not list a '65 or '68 reissue, a 1959HW or an AC30HW as vintage, do not call an untested amp working, and name a replaced output transformer rather than leave it for the buyer's tech to find.
Common mistakes
- Pricing a reissue as an original. Fender's '65 and '68 reissues, Marshall's 1959HW and Vox's AC30HW copy the vintage looks. Check the date codes and the back panel.
- Throwing away a blown original speaker or the old tubes. Buyers want the originals with the amp.
- Recovering or cleaning the tweed with solvents. Original tweed with honest wear is worth more than new covering.
How WorthPic reads amp photos
WorthPic runs on the newest and most capable AI model available, tuned for exactly this kind of identification. From your photos it reads the brand, model and control panel, the covering and grille style, the tube chart and its date stamp, and the codes on the transformers, speakers and pots when they are legible. It dates the amp to its era, notes signs of replaced parts or recovering, and gives an honest value range with a most likely figure. What it cannot know from a photo is whether the amp works, how the caps and tubes test, or whether the internal circuit has been modified, so it gives working and untested figures and says which photo would settle the date. It identifies and estimates. It does not test electronics, authenticate, grade or appraise.
What to photograph
- The front and control panel, straight on, with the model name readable.
- The back with the back panel removed, showing the tube chart and the tubes.
- The speaker frame with its code, and the transformer codes, in focus.
- Any serial plate and the power cord.
- The covering and grille close up, so wear or recovering shows.
When to get it looked at in person
A common silverface amp or a later reissue does not need an appraisal; Reverb's sold list for the exact model is enough. Get a technician's check before selling any amp you have not seen working, and get a specialist opinion for any tweed amp, a blackface amp with all-original parts, a plexi-panel Marshall from before 1970, a JMI-era Vox, or an amp with a documented history with a known player. Vintage guitar dealers and auction houses with musical instrument departments handle these. The amp often came with a guitar; our vintage Fender guitar guide dates Fender guitars by serial and neck date, and the general guitar value guide covers other makers. Hi-fi gear from the same decades is covered in the vintage stereo receiver guide and the vintage speakers guide. Our collectibles hub lists every instrument, audio and hobby guide we publish, with the same originality rules that drive amp prices.
Where to sell: Reverb is the main market, with a selling fee of about 5 percent plus payment processing. Heavy amps sell well locally, which spares you freight; a music store or vintage dealer will usually offer about 50-70 percent of what the amp would bring on Reverb. If you ship, take the tubes out and pack them separately.
Sources
- Reverb Price Guide: Fender Black Panel Deluxe Reverb 1963 to 1967: estimate $2,890-5,225 and sales of $3,100-5,000 in 2026.
- Reverb Price Guide: Fender Deluxe Reverb Drip Edge 1968 to 1969: estimate $1,679-3,292 and sales of $1,800-2,999.
- Reverb Price Guide: Marshall JMP 1959 Super Lead 1967 to 1975: estimate $2,816-4,821, five sales of $2,900-4,950 and the $16,850 sale in July 2026.
- Reverb Price Guide: Vox AC30/6 Twin Top Boost 1961 to 1968: estimate $2,825-6,077 and sales of $3,750-6,550 from December 2024 to October 2026.
- Reverb Price Guides for the Champ 5F1, Deluxe 5E3, Bassman 5F6-A, drip edge Champ, silverface Deluxe Reverb 1970 to 1977, 135-watt Twin Reverb, Marshall JMP 2203 and the Ampeg B-15N 1960 to 1962 and 1968 to 1980: the estimates and sales in the value table.
- Gardiner Houlgate: auction results: The Guitar Auction, June 9 to 12 and September 4 to 11, 2026. Fender Twin Reverbs from 1977 (£520 and £380) and 1980 (£420) hammer, plus a 26.4 percent buyer's premium including VAT, converted from pounds at the ECB rate of October 30, 2026.
- Vintage Fender Amp Repair: Fender date codes: tube chart letter codes A for 1951 to Q for 1967, month letters, and Schumacher transformer codes.
- GuitarHQ: Dating vintage guitars and amps by source-date code: EIA codes for Jensen 220, CTS 137, Oxford 465, Utah 328, Stackpole 304 and Centralab 134, and the year and week format.