A common Standing Liberty quarter is worth about $11-30 in the worn condition most are found in, as of late 2026, and about $10.50-11.50 if the date has worn away, which is the state of most of them. The floor is the silver: each coin holds 0.1808 troy ounces, about $10.50 with silver near $58 an ounce. The series ran from 1916 to 1930, and the design has a date on a raised step that wore off in a few years of circulation, so a large share of surviving coins have no readable date and sell for their metal. A coin with a clear date, a full rim and some detail in Liberty's gown is an $11-30 coin for most dates, and the same coin uncirculated sells for $200-600.
A few dates are worth far more. The 1916, the first year, with 52,000 struck, is worth about $2,600-4,000 even heavily worn. The 1918/7-S overdate is worth about $1,500-2,500 in Good. The 1921 and 1923-S are worth $150-350 in Good, and the 1927-S is a $35-50 coin worn but climbs steeply from Extremely Fine upward. In uncirculated grades, the Full Head designation, which means the helmet and hairline were fully struck, can multiply the price several times on the right date.
Quick answer
- Common dates, worn with readable date: about $11-30 as of late 2026. Dateless: silver, about $10.50-11.50.
- Mint mark is on the obverse, to the left of the date at the base of the pedestal: none, D or S.
- Key dates: 1916 ($2,600 and up), 1918/7-S ($1,500 and up), 1921 ($150 and up), 1923-S ($250 and up), 1927-S ($35 worn, $1,000 and up in Extremely Fine).
- Uncirculated coins with a Full Head bring a premium of two to twenty times, depending on the date.
How to check a Standing Liberty quarter, step by step
- Confirm the type. Liberty stands in a gateway holding a shield and an olive branch, with stars down each side. The reverse shows an eagle in flight. There are two types: Type 1 (1916 and part of 1917) shows Liberty with a bare right breast and no stars under the eagle; Type 2 (1917 to 1930) shows her in chain mail with three stars below the eagle. Our silver quarters guide places the series alongside the Barber and Washington types.
- Read the date. It is on the step at the base of the pedestal beneath Liberty's feet. From 1925 onward the date was recessed into the step and wears much better, which is why 1925 to 1930 coins with clear dates are common and 1917 to 1924 coins with clear dates are not.
- Find the mint mark. It is on the obverse, just left of the date, above and to the left on the pedestal. No letter is Philadelphia, D is Denver, S is San Francisco. It is small and wears quickly; use a loupe.
- Check the key dates and the overdate. If the date reads 1918 with an S, look at the 8 under magnification. On the 1918/7-S the top of a 7 shows through the upper loop of the 8. This variety is worth $1,500 and up in any grade and is the one coin in the series that a loupe can turn from $15 into real money.
- Grade the coin. On a circulated coin look at the shield rivets, the gown lines across Liberty's leg and the eagle's breast. Good means the date is readable and the rim is full, with the gown nearly flat. Fine means the gown lines are visible but worn across the leg. Very Fine means the shield rivets are clear and the gown lines mostly complete. Our coin grading scale guide shows each stage.
- Check the head on an uncirculated coin. Full Head, usually written FH, requires three things: the three leaves on the helmet, the complete hairline down to the ear, and a visible ear hole. Most dates were struck weakly in the center and a Full Head is scarce, which is why the premium exists.
- Look for date restoration. A coin with a readable date but a dull, etched gray patch around it has had the date brought back with acid. These sell for a small premium over silver, not the guide price, and should be described as restored.
- Compare with sold prices. Search the date, mint mark and grade in sold listings or a recent price guide. For the key dates, compare only graded examples.
What Standing Liberty quarters sell for by date
Prices below are for original, undamaged coins as of late 2026, with silver near $58 an ounce. Good means a readable date and full rim. Fine means gown lines visible. MS-63 and MS-65 are uncirculated grades from a grading service; FH is the Full Head designation at MS-65.
| Date and mint | Mintage | Good | Fine | MS-63 | MS-65 | MS-65 Full Head |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1916 | 52,000 | $2,600-4,000 | $7,000-9,000 | $18,000-25,000 | $30,000-40,000 | $40,000-60,000 |
| 1917 Type 1 | 8.7 million | $30-45 | $60-80 | $250-350 | $500-700 | $900-1,300 |
| 1917-D and 1917-S Type 1 | 1.5-2 million | $35-55 | $90-130 | $350-500 | $900-1,300 | $1,500-3,000 |
| 1917 Type 2 | 13.9 million | $25-35 | $40-55 | $200-280 | $450-650 | $1,000-1,500 |
| 1917-D and 1917-S Type 2 | 5-6 million | $35-50 | $70-100 | $300-450 | $1,000-1,600 | $3,000-6,000 |
| 1918/7-S overdate | Included in 1918-S | $1,500-2,500 | $3,500-5,000 | $20,000-30,000 | $75,000 and up | Rare; six figures |
| 1918, 1918-D, 1918-S | 11-14 million; 7.4 million; 11 million | $20-30 | $40-60 | $220-400 | $700-1,500 | $1,500-15,000 |
| 1919 | 11.3 million | $30-45 | $55-75 | $220-300 | $450-650 | $900-1,300 |
| 1919-D and 1919-S | 1.9 million; 1.8 million | $80-120 | $200-300 | $1,200-2,000 | $3,500-7,000 | $20,000 and up |
| 1920, 1920-D, 1920-S | 27.9 million; 3.6 million; 6.4 million | $12-50 | $25-110 | $200-900 | $450-3,000 | $900-20,000 |
| 1921 | 1.9 million | $150-220 | $300-450 | $1,400-2,000 | $3,000-4,500 | $5,000-8,000 |
| 1923 | 9.7 million | $12-18 | $25-35 | $200-280 | $450-650 | $1,500-2,500 |
| 1923-S | 1.4 million | $250-350 | $500-700 | $2,000-3,000 | $4,000-6,000 | $6,000-10,000 |
| 1924, 1924-D, 1924-S | 10.9 million; 3.1 million; 2.9 million | $12-35 | $25-80 | $200-500 | $450-1,800 | $1,000-15,000 |
| 1925 to 1930, Philadelphia, common | 4-12 million each | $11-13 | $14-20 | $180-250 | $400-550 | $700-1,500 |
| 1926-D | 1.7 million | $12-15 | $25-35 | $200-280 | $450-600 | $15,000 and up |
| 1926-S | 2.7 million | $12-15 | $30-45 | $900-1,400 | $2,500-4,000 | $20,000 and up |
| 1927-D | 976,000 | $15-22 | $50-70 | $250-350 | $600-900 | $2,000-3,500 |
| 1927-S | 396,000 | $35-50 | $100-150 | $3,500-5,000 | $9,000-14,000 | $100,000 and up |
| 1928 to 1930, D and S, common | 1.5-4 million each | $11-14 | $15-25 | $190-280 | $450-700 | $900-2,500 |
| Any date, worn smooth, no date | $10.50-11.50 (silver) |
The 1926-D is the clearest example of how the Full Head premium works. In MS-65 it is a $500 coin, one of the most common of the series uncirculated, because a large number were saved. Almost none were struck with a full head, so an MS-65 FH sells for $15,000 and up. The 1927-S runs the other way: scarce in every grade, with the worn ones affordable and the uncirculated ones among the most expensive twentieth-century quarters.
What condition and problems do to the price
| Factor | Effect on a common date | Effect on a key date |
|---|---|---|
| Date worn away | Silver, about $10.50-11.50 | Silver; it can no longer be identified |
| Date restored with acid | About $11-14 | A small fraction of the guide price; sells as a filler |
| Cleaned or polished | Silver to about half the grade price | Drops 50-70 percent |
| Rim nicks, scratches, holes | Silver | Drops 50 percent or more |
| Weak strike on the head, uncirculated | Normal; the baseline price | The difference between MS-65 and MS-65 FH |
| Full Head, uncirculated | Adds 50-200 percent | Adds several times |
| Graded by PCGS or NGC | Rarely worth it below About Uncirculated | Worth it in any grade from Good up for the 1916, 1918/7-S, 1921, 1923-S |
The dateless coin and the 1916 question
The most common question about this series is whether a dateless Standing Liberty quarter can be a 1916. In principle a Type 1 coin with the date gone could be either a 1916 or a 1917 Type 1, and the 1917 is worth $30 while the 1916 is worth thousands. There are small design differences in Liberty's head, the gown drapery and the shape of the date digits, but by the time the date is gone that detail is gone too, and grading services will not attribute a dateless coin as a 1916. A dateless Type 1 sells for a little more than a dateless Type 2, about $12-14 against $10.50-11.50, and that is the honest ceiling.
The quarter often turns up in the same jars as Mercury dimes, which kept their dates far better, so a jar of worn silver usually has readable dimes alongside dateless quarters.
How WorthPic reads a Standing Liberty quarter
WorthPic runs on the newest and most capable AI model available, tuned for exactly this kind of identification. The step at the base of the pedestal carries both the date and the mint mark, so a sharp, well-lit photo of the lower obverse settles most of the identification, and that is what it looks at first. It reads the type from the eagle's stars and Liberty's dress, reads the date and mint letter, judges wear from the shield rivets and the gown lines, and on an uncirculated coin looks at the helmet leaves and hairline for a Full Head. It then gives an honest value range for that date and grade, and says when a coin is dateless and therefore silver, which is the most common finding for this series. When the date is partly readable, or the area is in shadow, it says so and asks for a closer, angled shot of the step under one light rather than guessing between a $12 coin and a $200 one. It identifies and estimates. It does not grade, it does not assign Full Head and it does not authenticate the 1918/7-S overdate from a photo. The key dates and any uncirculated coin should go to PCGS or NGC with the coin in hand.
Common mistakes
- Expecting a dateless coin to be a 1916. It will be sold as a dateless Type 1 at a dollar or two over silver, and that is correct.
- Restoring a date with acid and then pricing from the guide. The acid-dated coin sells for a few dollars over silver regardless of what date appears.
- Looking for the mint mark on the reverse. On this series it is on the obverse, left of the date.
- Passing over a 1918-S without checking for the overdate.
- Paying a Full Head price for a coin that is not graded. Full Head is a strict standard and most coins advertised as "full head" raw are not.
What to photograph
- The lower obverse, close and angled under a single light, so the step with the date and the mint mark fills the frame. This is the photo that settles the date, the mint and whether it is an overdate.
- The full obverse straight on, showing the gown, shield and the type (bare breast or chain mail).
- The full reverse straight on, showing the eagle and whether three stars sit beneath it.
- On an uncirculated coin, a close shot of Liberty's head, for the helmet leaves, hairline and ear.
- A group shot of all the quarters date side up if you have several, so the dateless ones can be counted and the dated ones listed.
When to get it looked at in person
A dateless or common-date worn quarter does not need an expert. A coin shop will buy dateless coins at silver and dated common coins at a few dollars over, and a collector will pay the guide price for a nice Fine or Very Fine. PCGS or NGC grading is the right route for the 1916 in any grade, the 1918/7-S in any grade, the 1921 and 1923-S from Fine up, the 1927-S from Extremely Fine up, and any date that appears to be uncirculated with a sharp head, because the Full Head designation can only be assigned by a service and it can be worth thousands. If the quarter was part of an inheritance, the guide to what quarters are worth money covers the Barber and Washington coins that are usually found with it.