Stamps and banknotes

Red Seal 2 Dollar Bill Value: 1928, 1953, 1963 and Stars

A red seal $2 bill is worth about $4-10 worn for 1953 and 1963, about $10-40 for most 1928 letters, more for 1928B, stars and crisp notes. How to tell yours.

Updated October 15, 2026

A red seal $2 bill from the 1953 or 1963 series is worth about $4-10 in circulated condition and about $10-25 crisp uncirculated. Those two series make up most of the red seal twos that turn up, and they were printed in the tens of millions, so the premium over face is modest and honest. The 1928 series is older and scarcer: most 1928 letters sell for about $10-40 circulated and $50-200 uncirculated, the plain 1928 and 1928A are at the top of that, and the 1928B is the key of the whole run at about $60-200 circulated. Star notes multiply those figures by two to four, and a 1928B star is a four-figure note in any grade.

The red seal marks the note as a United States Note, also called a legal tender note, a type of currency the Treasury issued alongside Federal Reserve Notes until 1966. Every $2 bill printed from 1928 to 1963 is a red seal United States Note; no other kind of small-size two exists until the green seal Federal Reserve Note of 1976. All carry Jefferson on the face and Monticello on the back.

Quick answer

  • 1953 and 1963 red seal twos: about $4-10 circulated, $10-25 uncirculated, as of late 2026.
  • 1928 red seal twos: about $10-40 circulated for most letters; 1928B about $60-200; crisp 1928 notes $50-200 and up.
  • Star notes are worth two to four times a regular note of the same series; early 1928 stars are worth hundreds.
  • Low, solid, ladder and radar serial numbers add a premium on any series.

How to identify and value a red seal $2 bill, step by step

  1. Confirm the seal and serial color. A red Treasury seal with red serial numbers is a United States Note. If the seal and numbers are green, the note is a 1976 or later Federal Reserve Note, covered in our guide to $2 bill value.
  2. Read the series. It is printed on the face to the right of Jefferson, as "SERIES 1928 D", "SERIES 1953 A" or "SERIES 1963". The year is the design authorization; the letter marks a change of Treasury signatures within that design.
  3. Place the seal. On the 1928 series the red seal sits on the left of the face, over the word TWO, and the serial numbers run across the top. On the 1953 and 1963 series the seal moved to the right and shrank, and a large gray "2" was added at the left. This is the fastest way to sort a pile.
  4. Check the back for the motto. Series 1963 was the first $2 to carry IN GOD WE TRUST above Monticello. A 1953 back has no motto. The motto is also the easy check for the two 1963 letters, 1963 and 1963A, which differ only by signature.
  5. Look for a star. A star in place of the first or last character of the serial number marks a replacement note. Our star notes guide explains why they are scarcer and how run size matters.
  6. Read the serial number for patterns. Serials under 1000, solid digits, repeating pairs, ladders such as 12345678, radars that read the same backward and birthday-style numbers sell for more than the series alone.
  7. Grade the note. A note with no folds and sharp corners is uncirculated. One light fold is About Uncirculated, two or three folds Extremely Fine, a hard center crease and softer paper Very Fine, and a limp note with many folds and soiling is Fine or lower. Tears, stains, pinholes, writing and trimmed edges each cost a grade or more.
  8. Look up sold prices for the series, letter and grade. The jump from circulated to uncirculated on a red seal two is often three to five times, so grading honestly matters more than the series does for the 1953 and 1963 notes.

What each series sells for

All prices are for undamaged notes as of late 2026. The 1928 series is where the letters matter; from 1953 on the letters are all equally common and condition is the whole story.

Series Signatures Circulated (Fine to Very Fine) Crisp uncirculated Star note, circulated
1928 Tate and Mellon $20-60 $100-300 $200-800
1928A Woods and Mellon $15-50 $80-250 $300-1,000
1928B Woods and Mills $60-200 $400-1,200 $3,000-10,000+
1928C Julian and Morgenthau $10-25 $50-120 $80-300
1928D Julian and Morgenthau, revised back $8-20 $40-100 $60-200
1928E Julian and Vinson $10-30 $60-150 $150-500
1928F Julian and Snyder $6-15 $30-80 $40-120
1928G Clark and Snyder $6-12 $25-60 $30-100
1953 Priest and Humphrey $4-10 $12-25 $10-25
1953A Priest and Anderson $4-10 $12-25 $10-25
1953B Smith and Dillon $4-10 $12-25 $10-30
1953C Granahan and Dillon $4-10 $12-25 $12-30
1963 Granahan and Dillon $4-9 $10-20 $8-20
1963A Granahan and Fowler $4-9 $10-20 $8-20

The 1928B stands out because it was printed in a short run during 1932 and 1933 and few were saved. It is scarce in any grade and its star note is one of the rarest small-size notes a person can find in a drawer. The 1928D is the first with the redesigned back that shows Monticello with a wider sky and sharper detail, which is why 1928D onward is called the "new back" and the earlier letters the "old back"; the difference matters little to price but helps confirm the letter.

Star notes from the 1953 and 1963 series are common enough that a worn one sells for only a few dollars over a regular note. Uncirculated 1953 and 1963 stars bring about $25-60, and a full pack of 100 consecutive uncirculated 1963 twos sells for about $1,500-3,000.

Condition, serials and what changes the price

Factor Effect on a red seal $2
Crisp uncirculated with sharp corners Three to five times the circulated price
About Uncirculated, one light fold Roughly two to three times circulated
Hard center fold, otherwise clean The Very Fine baseline in the table
Limp, soiled, rounded corners The bottom of the circulated range or below
Star in the serial number Two to four times a regular note; far more on 1928 and 1928A to 1928E
Serial number under 1000 Adds about $20-100 on 1953 and 1963; more on 1928
Solid, ladder, radar or repeater serial Adds $50-500 depending on pattern and grade
Consecutive uncirculated run Small premium per note over a single
Pinholes, tears, stains, ink Drop one or two grades; a $10 note becomes a $4 note
Pressed or washed to look crisp Priced as circulated by anyone who looks, and graders note it
Mule or mismatched plate numbers A specialist variety; $50-300 on common series when attributed

Mules, notes printed with a back plate from a different series, exist on the 1928 twos and are a collector niche; the tiny plate numbers in the margins identify them, and a photo of each corner is enough for a specialist to check.

What it is not

How WorthPic reads photos of a red seal two

WorthPic runs on the newest and most capable AI model available, tuned for exactly this kind of identification. Paper money rewards a straight, flat, well-lit photo more than almost any other object, because the identifiers are all printed text and color. From the face it reads the series and letter, the seal position that separates 1928 from 1953, the signatures, the serial number and whether a star replaces a digit, and any pattern in the digits. From the back it checks for the 1963 motto and the old or new Monticello design. It then reads what the paper shows of folds, soiling, corner wear and margins to place the note in a grade band, and gives an honest value range for the series in that band, with a separate figure if the star or serial changes the picture. It cannot feel the paper. Pressing, washing, a closed tear or a trimmed margin may not show in a flat photo, and it will say so and ask for a photo at an angle under a lamp. It identifies and estimates. It does not grade or authenticate, and it does not appraise for insurance. A 1928B, any 1928 star or an uncirculated 1928 note is worth placing with PMG or PCGS Banknote before it is sold.

What to photograph

When to get it looked at in person

A circulated 1953 or 1963 red seal is a $4-10 note, and a coin and currency dealer or a collectors club will tell you so in a minute; no grading service is needed. The notes that justify the cost of PMG or PCGS Banknote grading, about $25-60 per note, are the 1928B in any grade, any 1928 series star, any 1928 note that looks uncirculated, and serial numbers that are low or patterned. A sealed holder with a grade settles the arguments about pressing and folds that otherwise cost sellers the top of the range, and a paper money dealer or a specialist currency auction is where those notes find their buyers. Red seal twos are often found with silver certificates and old fives in the same envelope; our guide to old dollar bills covers those.

Questions people ask

How much is a 1953 red seal 2 dollar bill worth?

About $4-10 in circulated condition and about $12-25 crisp uncirculated, as of late 2026. The four 1953 letters, plain through C, are equally common, and a circulated star sells for about $10-30.

How much is a 1963 red seal 2 dollar bill worth?

About $4-9 circulated and $10-20 uncirculated. The 1963 and 1963A series are the most common red seal twos; a crisp star note brings about $25-50.

How much is a 1928 red seal 2 dollar bill worth?

Most 1928 letters sell for about $6-40 circulated and $25-250 uncirculated, with the plain 1928 and 1928A at the upper end. The 1928B is the scarce one at about $60-200 circulated and $400-1,200 crisp.

What does the red seal on a 2 dollar bill mean?

It marks a United States Note, a form of Treasury-issued currency backed by the government rather than by the Federal Reserve. The Treasury stopped issuing them in 1966, and the 1976 $2 returned as a green seal Federal Reserve Note.

Are red seal 2 dollar bills still legal tender?

Yes. Every United States Note remains legal tender at face value, so the floor on any red seal two is $2. Selling to a collector or dealer is how the premium is realized.

Is a red seal 2 dollar bill with a star worth a lot?

A 1953 or 1963 star is worth about $10-30 circulated and $25-60 uncirculated. A 1928 series star is worth hundreds in most letters, and a 1928B star is a rarity worth thousands in any grade.

Related guides

Please read

Values in this guide are approximate and change with the market. WorthPic identifies items from photographs and gives an honest estimate. It is not an appraisal, a grading service or an authentication service. For anything that might be valuable, have it examined in person by a specialist.