To check a pair of Ray-Bans, start with the lenses: on most genuine modern pairs a small "RB" is etched into the left lens near the hinge, so faint it only shows when the glass is tilted against the light, and the Ray-Ban script logo is printed on the other lens. Then read the inside of the temples, which should carry a model code such as RB2140 for the Wayfarer or RB3025 for the Aviator, a color code, the lens and bridge size (like 50□22), and on the other arm "Made in Italy" or another country plus a CE mark and a lens category such as 3N. Hinges, nose pads, the logo on the temples and the case all add detail. Photos can show whether a pair is consistent or inconsistent with genuine Ray-Bans on each point. They cannot settle it, because good copies reproduce the etching and the codes.
Quick answer
- Look for: a faint RB etching in the left lens, clean temple codes that match the model, solid metal hinges, neat logo printing.
- Common values: approximately $40-100 for used modern pairs, $80-400 for vintage Bausch and Lomb pairs made in the USA.
- Codes and etchings are copied, so a photo never settles it.
How to check yours, step by step
- Tilt the left lens against a light. Hold the glasses with the lenses facing you and look at the lens on the wearer's left, near the hinge. You are looking for a tiny, crisp "RB" etched into the surface. Older Bausch and Lomb pairs, made before Luxottica bought the brand in 1999, carry "BL" instead. A missing etching is a reason to look closer; a thick, painted or easily visible mark is an inconsistency.
- Look at the printed logo. The Ray-Ban script logo is printed near the top corner of the other lens. You are looking for clean, sharp lettering in the familiar script, the correct spacing between Ray and Ban, and on polarized lenses a small "P" next to the logo.
- Read the inside of the left temple. Modern pairs print the model code (RB2140, RB3025, RB3016 and so on), a color code (901 for black on the Wayfarer, for example), and the size, written as lens width, a small square, and bridge width: 50□22 on a standard Wayfarer, 58□14 on a standard Aviator. Some pairs add the lens category here.
- Read the inside of the right temple. Look for "Made in Italy" or another country, the CE mark, the lens category such as 3N, and often the temple length (like 150). The print should be even, sharp and aligned, not smudged or slightly crooked.
- Match the code to the frame. The model code has to belong to the shape in hand. An RB2140 code on a round metal frame, or an Aviator size on a Wayfarer, is an inconsistency.
- Look at the hinges. Acetate frames such as the Wayfarer and Clubmaster use solid metal barrel hinges set into the frame, and the Wayfarer has small metal studs on the front corners and the temples. Metal frames such as the Aviator use screw hinges with neat, tight joints. You are looking for clean metalwork and smooth movement, not plastic hinges or rough, loose joints.
- Check the nose pads on metal frames. On modern Aviators and other metal frames, the clear nose pads usually carry a small metal Ray-Ban logo insert. Plain pads are worth noting, though pads are replaceable and genuine replacements exist.
- Check the case and cloth. Modern pairs usually come with a branded case, a cleaning cloth and a small booklet. Older B&L pairs came in their own cases. All of this is copied and adds little as evidence.
The Ray-Ban checklist, detail by detail
| Detail | Where to look | What is consistent with genuine Ray-Bans |
|---|---|---|
| Lens etching | Left lens, near the hinge | Tiny, crisp RB (BL on B&L pairs before 1999), visible when tilted |
| Printed logo | Top corner of the other lens | Clean Ray-Ban script; a P on polarized lenses |
| Model code | Inside left temple | RB plus four digits, belonging to the frame shape |
| Size | Inside left temple | Lens and bridge width, like 50□22 or 58□14, right for the model |
| Country and CE | Inside right temple | Made in Italy or another country, CE, lens category like 3N |
| Temple logo | Outside of the temples | Even, sharp Ray-Ban logo, plate or print depending on model |
| Hinges | Frame corners | Solid metal; barrel hinges on acetate, screw hinges on metal frames |
| Nose pads | Metal frames | Clear pads with a small metal logo insert on modern pairs |
| Lenses | Both lenses | Even tint, no distortion; G-15 green and B-15 brown are classic colors |
| Case and cloth | Packaging | Branded case and cloth; widely copied |
Common models and their codes
| Model | Code | Common size | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Wayfarer | RB2140 | 50□22 | Acetate, studs on front corners |
| New Wayfarer | RB2132 | 52□18 or 55□18 | Smaller, less tilted front |
| Aviator Large Metal | RB3025 | 58□14 or 62□14 | Metal, screw hinges, logo nose pads |
| Clubmaster | RB3016 | 51□21 | Acetate brow, metal lower rim |
| Round Metal | RB3447 | 50□21 | Round lenses, metal frame |
| Erika | RB4171 | 54□18 | Light plastic frame |
These are the best-known combinations; most models come in more than one size, so a different size is not on its own a red flag.
"Made in Italy", Luxottica and B&L
Bausch and Lomb created Ray-Ban in 1937 and made the glasses in the United States for decades. In 1999 the brand was sold to Luxottica, and production moved largely to Italy. Today most Ray-Bans read "Made in Italy", but some genuine models are made in China and elsewhere, so another country of origin is not on its own a sign of a copy. What matters is whether everything fits together: model, size, country, lens and era.
B&L pairs have their own markers: "BL" etched in the lens, "B&L Ray-Ban USA" stamped on the frame or bridge, and glass lenses such as the G-15. Collectors look for these markings together. A pair claiming to be vintage B&L with a modern RB etching or a Made in Italy print is mixing eras.
A short example. A pair of black acetate sunglasses with green lenses. The left lens shows a faint RB when tilted against a window, the other lens carries the Ray-Ban script, the left temple reads RB2140 901 50□22 and the right temple reads Made in Italy with CE and 3N. The metal studs sit cleanly on the front corners and the hinges move smoothly. That pair is consistent with a genuine modern Wayfarer in every detail the photos show, and its value is roughly $40-100 depending on lens scratches. It has still not been settled, but at that value, a careful comparison is usually as far as it makes sense to go.
Counterfeit tells visible in photos
Photos can show several inconsistencies clearly:
- No etching at all, or an etching that is printed, thick or obvious from the front.
- A logo with the wrong script, uneven letters, or a print that rubs off easily.
- Temple codes that are smudged, misaligned, missing the size, or that belong to a different model.
- Plastic or crude hinges, or visible glue around the hinge area.
- Rough seams or mold lines on the acetate, and uneven color.
- Nose pads without any insert on a modern metal frame, alongside other issues.
What photos cannot show: the weight and balance of the frame, the optical quality of the lens (distortion and UV protection need instruments), and the quality of the acetate. Good copies get the codes and etching right. A pair that passes every photo check is described as consistent, nothing more.
What Ray-Bans are worth
| Pair | Typical resale |
|---|---|
| Modern Wayfarer, Aviator or Clubmaster, used | $40-100 |
| Modern pair, like new with case | $70-130 |
| Modern polarized or special edition | $60-150 |
| B&L Wayfarer, Made in USA, good condition | $80-250 |
| B&L Aviator, gold-plated or gold-filled frame | $100-300 |
| Early B&L pairs (1950s-1960s) with gold-filled frames and case | $150-400 |
| Scratched modern lenses or bent frame | $10-40 |
Approximate private sale prices. Modern Ray-Bans sell new for well under the price of most designer eyewear and are bought for use, which caps resale. Vintage B&L pairs are a different market: collectors pay for American manufacture, glass lenses, original cases and good lens condition. Scratched lenses take most of the value away on both. For other accessories in a family lot, inherited designer bag worth covers how to rank bags and small goods, the same "consistent, not proven" logic for shoes is in how to tell if sneakers are real, and for designer bags in how to tell if a Gucci bag is real.
Common mistakes
- Treating the case, cloth or box as proof. They are the easiest part to copy.
- Expecting "Made in Italy" on every genuine pair. Some genuine models are made elsewhere.
- Looking for the etching from the front. It is faint by design and needs a tilt against light.
- Calling a vintage pair fake because it has no RB etching. B&L pairs use BL, and some very early pairs have neither.
- Missing replaced lenses. Prescription or aftermarket lenses have no etching and do not make the frame a copy.
- Pricing vintage B&L at modern resale, or modern pairs at vintage prices.
What to photograph
- The glasses from the front, unfolded, in daylight.
- The left lens tilted against a light, close up, with the etching in focus.
- The printed logo on the other lens.
- The inside of both temples, sharp enough to read every character.
- The hinges, front and side, close up.
- The nose pads on metal frames.
- Any B&L stamp on the bridge or frame.
- The case, cloth and paperwork.
When to get it looked at in person
For a modern pair worth $40-100, a professional opinion costs too much to make sense; the checklist and photos are usually enough to decide whether the details are consistent. An optician can test lenses for UV protection and polarization with a meter, often at little or no cost when you are a customer, which answers the most practical question. For vintage B&L pairs above about $150, a dealer in vintage eyewear or an experienced collector is worth consulting before a sale, because matching frames, lenses and cases from the right era decides most of the price. Some resale platforms check eyewear before passing it to buyers, which moves the question to them.